Clothing and Textiles Research Journal recent issues

What's Happening in China's Textile and Clothing Industries?

Shen, D. — 2008-06-16

This study examines major changes in China's textile and clothing industries, studies their reactions to quota elimination, and explores the current status of China's textile and clothing industries, and to bring enhanced understanding to Western countries. Fourteen in-depth interviews were conducted at the end of 2005 and beginning of 2006 in China. Four themes were found. China's textile and clothing industries have transitioned from a planned economic system to a market economic system. The major textile and clothing production and trading centers nowadays are located along the East Coast of China. Different formats of textile and clothing enterprises have gone through different transitional processes. Most of these companies today face three challenges: the instability of the trading environment, changing currency exchange rates, and an increasing energy price. New strategies have been developed, such as focusing on quality rather than quantity, developing Chinese brands, and moving facilities to other countries to avoid safeguards and restraints and to get even cheaper labor. Contributions and limitations are discussed as well.

The Beautiful but Strong Message of the Green Butterfly

Choi, M.-S. — 2008-06-16

The objective of this draping project was to recreate the aesthetic movement of a butterfly in flight and to emphasize environmental harmony. The resources and materials used are important to issues of the environment. Even though the green butterfly dress is very beautiful, it sends a strong message about risk to nature and the environment. The dress focuses on creating the movement of wings, like those of a butterfly in flight, when the wearer walks in it. The skirt makes a lovely wave, like a butterfly in a fresh and open green field. Overall, the figure presents an hourglass silhouette with a fitted upper body, narrow waist, and gradually flared full skirt.

Three-Dimensional Body Scan Data Analysis: Body Size and Shape Dependence of Ease Values for Pants' Fit

Petrova, A., Ashdown, S. P. — 2008-06-16

Three-dimensional body scanning technology was used to analyze fit of women's pants and to measure garment ease at various locations. Special test pants constructed with adjustable Velcro sections were used to provide custom fit for each study participant. Twenty-four subjects, ages 35 to 55, represented three body shape groups (straight, medium, curvy) determined by the hip-to-waist circumferences ratio, and four size groups covering Misses size range 4 to 16. Scans of a subject wearing minimal clothing and of the same subject wearing the test pant, adjusted by the researchers for best fit in a standing position, were compared. The differences between the pant and body scans (ease) were determined for circumference, slice area, surface area, and volume measurements at various locations and analyzed for size and shape dependence. Decrease in percent ease differences with increasing size was observed for several variables; no clear dependence on shape was found. Size dependences were used to propose a way of pattern grading with grade intervals variable by size and body location.

A Tale of Two Industries: An Interpretive Analysis of Media Reports on Textiles and Apparel in North Carolina

Hodges, N. N., Karpova, E. — 2008-06-16

This qualitative study explores recent textile and apparel industry dynamics from the point of view of the news media to understand how such dynamics are presented to the general public. North Carolina, having been home to many jobs in these industries, was used as a case study. Data were a total of 600 articles from two of the state's primary newspapers spanning the period from 1998 to 2003. Content of these articles was analyzed via a hermeneutic, interpretative framework to develop a thematic interpretation of the image of the two industries provided by the news media. Several themes were tied together through three broad topical areas—industry changes, strategic initiatives, and the impact of loss—and provide a multidimensional view of the industries as presented to the public. Further research is needed to understand the impact this image might have on public perceptions of the future of these industries.

Focused Issue on the Future: Introduction to Part II

Hodges, N. N., Damhorst, M. L. — 2008-03-28

Fashion Design for a Projected Future

Ames, A. — 2008-03-28

Using long-term forecasting techniques, an apparel design problem is developed to explore possible outcomes for a style of fashionable women's clothing in the relatively near future, approximately 10 to 20 years from now. The form of fashion design that exists outside of commercial constraints and is used to create drama on the runway is chosen to provide freedom in aesthetic response to a projected scenario of the future. The runway showpiece is intended to provide inspiration to its designer for designs of more practical, saleable clothing.

Extensible Dress: The Future of Digital Clothing

Palomo-Lovinski, N. — 2008-03-28

The purpose of this article is to explore current trends in the social psychology of clothing, postmodernism, and advancing technologies that suggest a concept of clothing in the future. New technologies in initial stages of development, such as organic light-emitting devices and polymer light-emitting devices, demonstrate the possibility of a soft, wearable digital screen that would project any type of image. If such a device could be perfected, the creative uses could expand dramatically to allow for change and personal manipulation of appearance that our postmodern society craves. A future scenario and set of illustrations present a bodysuit that could be controlled by a microcomputer to project multiple images in a matter of seconds, thereby changing appearances depending on the situation.

The Wonders of Technology: Teaching Becomes Virtual

Boorady, L. M., Hawley, J. M. — 2008-03-28

At present, the teaching of patternmaking usually takes place in a lecture-lab setting in which the instructor teaches the steps and students duplicate the work. Patternmaking courses are slowly moving toward an Internet-based format, for which students no longer attend class sessions at a certain time or place. Such innovative ways of providing education have, however, typically been provided through a text-based format. How should visual topics such as patternmaking be dealt with, now and in the future? This article explores the possibilities for use of animation software for teaching patternmaking and projects its use into the future, suggesting immersive virtual reality and holograms as teaching technologies. An examination of current research and application of these technologies and of ways they may play a role in the future of education is presented.

How Can Virtual Reality Reshape Furniture Retailing?

Oh, H., Yoon, S.-Y., Shyu, C.-R. — 2008-03-28

The authors explore the potential that Virtual Reality (VR) offers for the future of furniture retailing. For that purpose, they develop an Internet-based Virtual Reality Integrated Solution (VRIS) system that allows viewers to select furniture (sofa, chair, and table) to set up a living room. They also develop a two-dimensional static, image-based system as a control to test the effectiveness of VR over conventional formats of two-dimensional interfaces. The results demonstrate that enhancing consumers' ability to visualize furniture coordination produces significant, positive differences in their product experiences and decision-making. The authors propose that VR-integrated Web sites should function as a virtual front door to brick-and-mortar stores. They outline a click-and-brick strategy for furniture retailing and describe how the VRIS system can contribute to shaping furniture retailing in fast-moving and unpredictable markets.

Dress in the Third Dimension: Online Interactivity and Its New Horizons

Loker, S., Ashdown, S., Carnrite, E. — 2008-03-28

This article is an analysis of how digital technology and the Internet are changing how we engage in practices of dress and appearance in the 21st century. An exploration of the technologically-assisted ways we see and interact with images of self and the clothing we wear is presented. Applications of body scan images for individuals and businesses to improve fit are examined as well as the interactive technologies being developed that allow individuals to view and dress their own body scans for virtual-try-on, virtual-fit, and virtual-reality applications. Although issues surrounding consumer comfort with, availability of, and profitable business models for these technologies still prevent broad-based adoption, we pose questions about the potential advantages and challenges for the digital, interactive third dimension of dress. Will dress in the third dimension have the same self-defining role that our dress has now in our everyday lives? Will the ability to create imaginary and symbolic virtual worlds affect our relationship to the world where we interact in person with others every day? Will the ability to see ourselves in three dimensions increase acceptance of normal body variations and counteract the popular media images of what constitutes a beautiful body? These are the questions we need to study as interactivity helps us become involved with our dress in new ways.

The Digital Consumer: Valuable Partner for Product Development and Production

Fiore, A. M. — 2008-03-28

In this article, the author posits how the "digital consumer" can become a valuable partner for textile and apparel product development/design and production firms. Inspiration and insight for product development/design and production is available through digital technology via blogs, mass customization, and rich media (e.g., virtual models). This article also discusses the need for the textile and apparel industry to understand the full range of human–computer interface experience (i.e., how the consumer responds to the information, interface, and interactive functions of the digital medium such as a Web site) to ensure successful partnerships and implementation of digital technology.

Clothing and Textiles Education in South Korea: Perspectives for the Knowledge-Based Information Society

Rhee, E.-Y. — 2008-03-28

Clothing has been an important object to individuals, society, and culture throughout history. Clothing and textiles (C&T) in higher education in South Korea has gone through different stages as its educational goals and contents have responded to social needs. During the first era (1920s-1950s), C&T was taught along with other subjects as a part of home economics. During the second era (1960s-1980s), C&T became an independent academic discipline with its own identity. In the current era, when knowledge-based information is the central resource of society, C&T education is expected to change to meet the needs of industry, which mediates between society and academia. Globalization and information technology (IT) development in the information society affect the fashion industry, not only directly but also indirectly through the changes of consumers' diversified lifestyles. The fashion industry needs trained human resources from C&T, graduates who have global core competencies in specialized areas, can create high value, and implement IT technology for the industry. C&T education should set goals reflecting the needs of the fashion industry and take approaches seeking balance in vocational versus theoretical, specialized versus integrated, and basic versus applied knowledge.

Dress and Human Behavior: A Review and Critique

Johnson, K. K. P., Yoo, J.-J., Kim, M., Lennon, S. J. — 2007-12-14

The purpose of this article is to present a comprehensive review and analysis of published research that investigated relationships between the dress of an individual and how that dress affected others' behavior toward the individual. Existing published research was analyzed to determine the types of behaviors investigated, the types of dress manipulations, whether dress had a significant effect, theory used to guide the research, and who the participant population was in the research. Research methods were also reviewed. Sources of data were 93 studies published from 1955 to 2004. Researchers overwhelmingly investigated helping behavior. The most frequently operationalized concepts using dress manipulations were labeled "dress," "status," and "attractiveness." Researchers using dress or attractiveness or attire as the primary dress manipulation did not necessarily control for other dress variables (e.g., makeup, hair-style) in their research. Most of this research was not guided by theory.

Factors Influencing Apparel Imports From China

Qimin Zhang, , Hathcote, J. M. — 2007-12-14

This article examines the impact of the quota phase-out effect on apparel trade between the United States and China post-2005 quota eliminations. To achieve this goal, several critical variables associated with the U.S. import volume of apparel from China are identified and studied. These variables, including quota price, tariff rate, labor costs, and freight costs are analyzed to determine the extent to which they influence the import volumes. From the research results, the researchers postulate possible changes post-2005 in U.S. apparel imports from China and provide beneficial information to the U.S. retailing industry in terms of sourcing opportunity with China's apparel industries, pending possible safeguards through 2008. Implications of past utilization rates and quota limits for U.S. retailers' sourcing of Chinese apparel products are drawn. The research finds that quota prices and tariff rates most often significantly influence the trade pattern of the selected apparel groups and that quota removal boosts U.S. apparel imports from China.

Engaging in Buyer-Seller Partnership for Fair Labor Management: The Role of a Buyer Firm's Strategic Emphasis

Park, H., Dickson, M. A. — 2007-12-14

This study introduces the concept of partnership for fair labor management, which has been identified as critical for further improvement in labor management in the apparel and footwear industry. The purpose of the study was to examine the influence of a firm's strategic emphases on its partnership behavior for fair labor management. An exploratory scale of partnership was developed based on what has been found in practice and the buyer-seller relationship literature. A self-administered survey through mail was conducted to gather data from 209 sourcing managers from U.S. firms. Six types of strategic emphases (i.e., supply control, image differentiation, focus, quality differentiation, product development, and low price) were identified. Firms with supply control, image differentiation, and product development strategic emphases were more engaged in partnership, whereas ones with a low-price emphasis were less engaged in partnership relationships. The role of strategic emphases as well as control variables, including size and the extent of foreign sourcing, are discussed in relation to partnership behavior for fair labor management.

Identification of Strategies Used for Solving Items on the Apparel Spatial Visualization Test

Gitimu, P. N., Workman, J. E. — 2007-12-14

To obtain a clearer understanding of spatial visualization ability, research needs to detail the information-processing demands and solution strategies used by individuals. Strategy use is integral to successful performance of spatial tasks. The purpose of this study was to identify, categorize, and verify strategies that students use to solve items on the Apparel Spatial Visualization Test (ASVT). A two-part study was conducted; in the first part, subjects reported their problem-solving processes while solving the ASVT. Analysis of subjects' reports resulted in the Use of Strategy Questionnaire (USQ) specific for the ASVT. In the second part of the study, the USQ was used to verify the strategies identified in the first part. Results concurred with previous literature that different individuals use different strategies to solve the same spatial cognitive task.

Apparel Import Intermediaries: The Impact of a Hyperdynamic Environment on U.S. Apparel Firms

Ha-Brookshire, J. E., Dyer, B. — 2007-12-14

This study's objectives were to clarify the standing of apparel import intermediaries (AIIs) and to obtain an immediate, deeper understanding of them in real-life settings from the perspective of industry experts with years of immersion in apparel industry phenomena. Based on interpretive analysis of qualitative in-depth interviews with 13 corporate executives of AII firms in New York City, the authors critically evaluated AIIs' views of their environment, development, and functions. Findings indicated ambivalent reactions to the hyperdynamic environment that has resulted from the global reordering of the apparel industry and described two development paths of AIIs, transformation or birth. Results also showed that this hyperdynamic environment has shaped firms' functional responses, leading AIIs to implement design, marketing, sourcing, and service activities in unique ways. The study explicates the critical role that classification systems and terminology play in firm identity, the tracking of economic data, and policy development within the U.S. apparel industry.

Shades of Chanel: Design Award: Effective Use of Historical Influences, 2005

Jennings, T. — 2007-12-14

Shades of Chanel is a two-piece tweed suit influenced by the many design touches pioneered by Coco Chanel, including frayed edges, ribbon accents, decorative shirring, uneven hemlines, texture mixing, and gilt trim. Examples of her designs were observed in a 2005 Metropolitan Museum of Art exhibition. The exhibition demonstrated how Chanel influenced dress and style during much of the 20th century. The suit features Chanel's trademark couture construction techniques in its bound buttonholes, matched plaids, and chain-weighted hemline.

Focus on the Future: Introduction to Part I

Damhorst, M. L., Hodges, N. N. — 2007-09-10

The U.S. Apparel Industry: Futuring With Undergraduate Students in Apparel Majors

Kim, E., Johnson, K. K. P. — 2007-09-10

The purpose of the study was to identify what prospective professionals in the apparel industry believe the future holds for the industry in the next 10 to 20 years. Essays were collected from 30 apparel design and 48 retail merchandising majors. Participants predicted that technological developments would be the prominent force for changes across all levels of the future apparel industry. They forecasted the continued development of specialized fibers or fabrics for specific functions and apparel styles emphasizing function, practicality, comfort, and individuality. Total automation and a wide adoption of mass customization were predicted for production. Consumers were expected to use only the Internet or brick-and-mortar stores in conjunction with the Internet. Based on their predictions, the authors provide a glimpse into the possible future of the apparel industry and suggest directions for further research.

Future Forces Transforming Apparel Retailing in the United States: An Environmental Scanning Approach

Kim, H.-Y., Jolly, L., Kim, Y.-K. — 2007-09-10

The apparel retail landscape in the United States has undergone dramatic changes during the past decade. In most major segments, apparel retailers have faced market saturation combined with slow spending growth. Furthermore, the early years of the 21st century have produced an age of anxiety and uncertainty that has resulted in fear and inertia among consumers and retailers alike. What, then, is the outlook for apparel retailing in this uncertain world? As an attempt to generate viable answers to this question, the researchers identify environmental change factors that may affect the future of apparel retailing. Three major forces transforming apparel retailing in the United States—changes related to plus-size, aging, and Hispanic/Latino consumers—emerge from the environmental scanning procedures. Each force pushes apparel retailers toward a new mentality of defining their customers and making strategic decisions for long-term prosperity.

Constructing Knowledge for the Future: Exploring Alternative Modes of Inquiry From a Philosophical Perspective

Hodges, N. N., DeLong, M., Hegland, J., Thompson, M., Williams, G. — 2007-09-10

Clothing and textiles research is examined within a futuring framework to discuss potential avenues for development of thought within the field. A philosophical perspective linking ontology, epistemology, and methodology is posited as important to exploring assumptions that guide the research process. The material culture studies perspective, the feminist social science perspective, and the critical science perspective are discussed as three potential ways of approaching the subject matter in need of mainstreaming as we look to the future of knowledge production within clothing and textiles. Based on this discussion, ideas and implications for scenario-building in the traditional futures sense are presented.

Surveying the Present and an Imagined Future: The Quest for a Bright Future in the Textiles and Apparel Professions

Jacob, J. — 2007-09-10

Toward the effort of planning for the future, this article begins by summarizing current national and global contexts in which the textiles/apparel/retail complex and related education professions exist. These current contexts affect us as consumers, citizens, and professionals and will frame our individual and collective futures. The author uses these conditions as the foundation from which a work of fiction, told from the perspective of an elderly retired textiles and apparel professor in the year 2050, unfolds. The author emphasizes that the endeavors of neither education nor industry in the textiles and apparel fields exist outside global political, economic, and environmental circumstances and that these are key considerations in planning for the future.

Continents, Cultures, Curriculum: Some Thoughts on the Future of the Profession

O'Neal, G. S. — 2007-09-10

This article poses questions of relevance concerning preparing professionals for the future. The need to find ways to maximize the "pieces of knowledge" brought by the multicultural and multinational members of the International Textile and Apparel Association, the need for transformation in how we think and are taught, and the need for futures studies in curricular offerings in order to prepare professionals are also stressed.