Clothing and Textiles Research Journal recent issues

Global Fashion Marketing Systems: Introduction to the Focus Issue

Miller, N. J., Ko, E., Niehm, L., Eun Joo Park, — 2009-09-18

Modeling Brand Equity of a U.S. Apparel Brand as Perceived by Generation Y Consumers in the Emerging Korean Market

Eun Young Kim, , Knight, D. K., Pelton, L. E. — 2009-09-18

This study examined causal relationships among brand awareness, brand perceptions, and purchase intention by focusing on Korean Generation Y (Gen Y) consumers. A total of 235 usable questionnaires were obtained from college students in major cities in South Korea. Structural and measurement models using a correlation matrix with maximum likelihood was estimated using LISREL 8.53. Findings indicated that Korean consumers’ perceptions of the U.S. apparel brand consisted of three dimensions: perceived quality, prestigious image, and emotional value. Brand awareness was significantly related to three factors of brand perceptions among Korean Gen Y consumers. Brand awareness, especially, affected the prestigious image of a U.S. apparel brand in the Korean market. In addition, emotional value had a positive effect on purchase intention for the U.S. apparel brand among Korean Gen Y consumers. Findings provide implications for brands and retailers developing entry strategies into the Korean fashion market.

Comparative Analysis of Purchase Intentions Toward Smart Clothing Between Korean and U.S. Consumers

Ko, E., Sung, H., Yun, H. — 2009-09-18

To examine perceived risks and attributes of smart clothing and how they influence attitudes and purchase intentions toward smart clothing, this study compares 300 Korean and 311 American purchasers to find any differences in the innovation-decision process. Analysis of the data indicates that perceived attributes are identifiable as relative advantage/compatibility and complexity factors. The most significant predictor explaining product attitude and purchase intention across the two countries is relative advantage/compatibility, whereas complexity is only significant in predicting attitude toward smart clothing in the U.S. model. Perceived risks among Koreans are generated into psycho/social, economic, time loss, and performance. Americans present five factors, with psychological and social risk dimensions being separate. Psychological and/or social risk and economic risk take on significant roles in explaining relative advantage, whereas different dimensions of perceived risks are associated with complexity across the two nations.These findings imply different marketing strategies for each cultural group.

Cross-Cultural Examination of Women's Fashion and Beauty Magazine Advertisements in the United States and South Korea

Jung, J., Lee, Y.-J. — 2009-09-18

To compare differences in the construction of women's images across the United States and South Korea, this study examines advertisements in fashion and beauty magazines of the two countries. The content analysis includes product/service types, models’ characteristics, and the degrees of female objectification in this advertising venue. More body-related than non-body-related product ads are prevalent in magazines from both countries, yet Korean magazines feature more body-related ads than those in the United States. Caucasian models are predominantly used across the two countries, including Korean publications. Although both Korean and U.S. women are predominantly portrayed as decorative objects, models are more often shown as submissive and passive in Korea but a greater emphasis is on body and sexuality in the United States. The homogenized beauty standards and high levels of objectification observed across the two countries demand marketing strategies that are more inclusive of diverse, active images of women.

An Opportunity Analysis Framework for Apparel Retailing in India: Economic, Social, and Cultural Considerations for International Retail Firms

Batra, M., Niehm, L. — 2009-09-18

Despite seemingly large market potential, little is known about the scope of opportunities and threats for international apparel retailers seeking to enter the growing Indian retail arena.A low level of organized retail penetration, coupled with an ineffective supply chain, characterizes the infrastructure of the Indian retail industry.Analysis of the current state of Indian retail, along with opportunities and threats to growth, would have immense significance for international retailers vying to enter the Indian market.This paper presents a conceptual framework that offers advice for international corporations regarding successful entry and sustainability in India. Using a metatheory approach, a series of testable propositions are presented in relation to opportunities for international retail development in the Indian apparel retail sector. Propositions are guided by theoretical perspectives from Rostow (1960) and Dunning (1988, 1993, 1995). Discussion and implications of the resulting opportunity analysis framework are presented for both academic researchers and retail practitioners.

Evolution of a New Retail Institution Type: Case Study in South Korea and China

Kim, S., Kincade, D. H. — 2009-09-18

Kim and Kincade (2006) proposed the Combined Retail Evolution Model (CREM) by examining retailing in a non-Western country (South Korea) and subsequently identified the Private-Branded Hive type store (PBH) as a new retail institution type.The purposes of this new study are (a) to examine the evolution of the PBH and (b) to examine the Supply Chain City (SCC) in China, using a case study research method with content analysis and researcher observation.The results indicate that the evolution of the PBH has begun, and it is changing into a new retail type. For the SCC, environmental influences identified in China were similar to those found in the Dong Dae Moon district (DDM) of South Korea.Although the retail component of the PBH retail institution type has not appeared in the Chinese SCC, the high possibility of acceptance of PBH-style retail stores by Chinese consumers can be seen in Beijing’s Commodity Trading Stores.

Factors Related to Engagement in Risky Appearance Management Behaviors

Lee, J., Johnson, K. K. P. — 2009-06-28

Using self-objectification theory we investigated variables that predict engagement in risky appearance management behaviors among female college students. We found self-objectification was related to engagement in risky appearance management behaviors. Interaction about appearance with friends and family members was also related to engagement in risky appearance management behaviors. Both beliefs about appearance and internalization of appearance ideals were influences on self-objectification.

Socially Responsible Consumer Behavior?: Exploring Used Clothing Donation Behavior

Ha-Brookshire, J. E., Hodges, N. N. — 2009-06-28

Most research on socially responsible consumer behavior has focused on consumer purchasing behavior; therefore, little is known about it during the product disposal stage. This study seeks an in-depth understanding of consumer disposal behavior in a used clothing donation setting. An interpretive analysis revealed that the primary motivation for participants' used clothing donation behavior is the need to create space in the closet for something new. The threat of feelings of guilt played a significant role throughout the process prior to donation, specifically in the decision whether to discard or donate a clothing item. Participants experienced both utilitarian and hedonic values regarding their donation behavior, and these values in turn affected future donation intentions. A conceptual model based on the study findings that integrates a theory of reasoned action framework with a consumer values perspective is proposed. Study implications and future research avenues are also discussed.

Comparison of the Ideal and Real Body as Women Age: Relationships to Age Identity, Body Satisfaction and Importance, and Attention to Models in Advertising

Kozar, J. M., Damhorst, M. L. — 2009-06-28

This study examines the relationship between age, body image, and women's proclivity to compare themselves with fashion models. A sample of 281 women between the ages of 30 and 80 participated in this study. Significant positive relationships between social comparison behavior and (a) appearance self-discrepancy and (b) the importance placed on achieving ideal appearance were found. A significant inverse relationship between social comparison behavior and body satisfaction was also observed. Participants older in age were found to be less likely to compare themselves with fashion models. However, the younger that participants felt they were, the more inclined they were to compare themselves with models. Participants who reported a larger difference between their ideal and actual age perceived more discrepancy between their ideal and actual appearance, were generally more dissatisfied with their body and appearance, and were more likely to compare themselves with fashion models.

Influence of Moral Affect, Judgment, and Intensity on Decision Making Concerning Counterfeit, Gray-Market, and Imitation Products

Kim, J.-E., Hyeon Jeong Cho, , Johnson, K. K. P. — 2009-06-28

We examined the direct effects of moral judgment, moral intensity, and moral affect, specifically shame and guilt, on undergraduates' purchase intent concerning counterfeits, gray-market products, and imitations. The indirect effects of moral intensity, shame, and guilt on moral judgment were also investigated. A between subjects experiment was designed and participants (n = 313) responded to a scenario. For both the counterfeit and imitation products, moral judgment had a significant negative effect on purchase intent. Moral intensity had no significant effect on purchase intent for all product types but it had significant positive influence on moral judgment for all product types. Guilt had a significant negative influence on purchase intent for gray-market products and a positive influence on moral judgment for all product types. In addition, moral judgment mediated the impact of guilt on intent to purchase gray-market products.

Social Anxiety as Predictor of Personal Aesthetic Among Women

Reilly, A., Rudd, N. A. — 2009-06-28

Social anxiety is the psychological condition a person experiences due to fear of making an embarrassing impression, and is experienced more by women than men. Appearance management behaviors, or activities engaged in to create a personal aesthetic, are categorized as routine and non-routine. Using Schlenker and Lear's model of social anxiety and self-presentation and Rudd and Lennon's Model of Body Aesthetics we propose that social anxiety and appearance management behaviors are related. Using an internet survey method, data were collected from 287 women. Results reveal a link between social anxiety and some routine behaviors and the likelihood to engage in some non-routine behaviors. Results are discussed in terms of objectification and internalization of beauty standards.

Strategic Sourcing and Supplier Selection in the U.S. Textile-- Apparel--Retail Supply Network

Su, J., Dyer, C. L., Gargeya, V. B. — 2009-03-12

This research investigates the key causal linkages in supply chain management—the impact of strategic sourcing and supplier selection on firm performance in the U.S. textile—apparel—retail supply network. A conceptual framework was developed and the empirical survey-based research methodology was used to gather data from the U.S. textile—apparel—retail complex. The data collection resulted in 181 responses, representing a 38.2% response rate. Structural equation modeling was used to assess the research model and test the research hypotheses. The research findings support that strategic sourcing has a significant and positive effect on business performance, and supplier selection has a significant and positive effect on the firm's ability to gain competitive advantages. The research concludes with implications, limitations, and directions for future research.

Feminist Theory of the Dressed Female Body: A Comparative Analysis and Applications for Textiles and Clothing Scholarship

Tyner, K. E., Ogle, J. P. — 2009-03-12

The purpose of this analysis was to synthesize diverse theoretical positions advanced within contemporary feminist literature on the dressed female body and to consider the varied ways in which these theoretical positions may have bearing on the field of textiles and clothing. Feminist perspectives of the dressed body are discussed as related to (a) modern feminist readings of the body, (b) postmodern feminist readings of the body, (c) feminist musings about the possibility of the body as a vehicle for empowerment, and (d) feminist perspectives on ambivalence and the body. Throughout the discussion, feminist theories of the dressed body are compared and situated with respect to broader feminist ideologies and assumptions. Concluding this work, suggestions are provided for future applications of feminist theory of the dressed body to textiles and clothing scholarship.

Juxtaposing Jacquards

Jennings, T. — 2009-03-12

Juxtaposing Jacquards illustrates the concept that individual cultures can keep their unique traditions even as they participate in the global arena. The jacquard ribbons represent the beauty and individuality of traditional cultures. The gold color woven through the ribbons and in the base fabric exemplifies the common values or threads that bond all cultures of the world. Just as each unique ribbon is juxtaposed to contribute to the unified textile design of the dress, it is asserted that cultures can come together harmoniously while maintaining their individuality. The knife-pleated empire waist dress is made from antique and designer jacquard ribbons and antique gold metallic lame.

Women and Higher Education in Russia: Preparation for Careers in the Apparel Industry

Hodges, N. N., Karpova, E. — 2009-03-12

This qualitative study explored the motivations, goals, and experiences of 25 female apparel majors enrolled at two large Russian universities. Data were collected via in-depth interviews and a demographic questionnaire, and interpreted thematically to explore commonalities and differences across student narratives. Substantial reforms resulting from profound socioeconomic and political changes have affected both higher education and industry in Russia. Based on the analysis of student narratives, three topical areas are used to structure the thematic interpretation and to address key issues stemming from the students' perceptions regarding the relationship between Russian apparel programs and the country's apparel industry. The results establish the significance of apparel programs for facilitating Russian women's career aspirations and have implications for understanding the educational and employment goals of women from an international perspective. Further research is needed to understand the roles these Russian women take on within the industry after graduation.

Personalization of Fair Trade Apparel: Consumer Attitudes and Intentions

Halepete, J., Littrell, M., Park, J. — 2009-03-12

The purpose of this study was to understand the potential for product personalization to meet fair trade customers' apparel needs. The researchers tested a model that integrated customers' need for self-uniqueness, level of apparel involvement, perceived social and financial risks, and body size with customers' attitudes toward personalized apparel and intention to purchase personalized fair trade apparel. An online survey was used to collect data from 246 customers of a fair trade business. Results showed that consumers with greater need for self-uniqueness had a positive attitude toward personalization and were not concerned with social and financial risks. Consumers' involvement and social and financial risks were not related to their attitudes toward personalization. However, there was a positive relationship between body size and attitude toward personalized apparel. Overall, attitude toward personalization of apparel was positively related to intention to purchase personalized fair trade apparel. Implications for fair trade businesses are discussed.

Rural Consumers' Online Shopping for Food and Fiber Products as a Form of Outshopping

2008-12-10

The purpose of the research was to longitudinally investigate rural consumers' online shopping for food and fiber products as a function of satisfaction with local retailing and outshopping. Innovation diffusion theory was used to guide the research. Eight hundred seventy-nine rural consumers from 11 states completed surveys twice (in 2000 and 2003). Data were analyzed using structural equation modeling and analyses of variance. Dissatisfaction with local retailing in 2000 was a powerful driver of outshopping, beliefs about online shopping, and online shopping (both in 2000 and in 2003). Outshopping was positively related to online shopping at both points in time, suggesting that variables found to affect outshopping in the literature may affect online shopping in a similar way.

Problem Structure Perceived: Dance Practicewear Needs of Adult Female Dance Students

Mitchka, J., Black, C., Heitmeyer, J., Cloud, R. M. — 2008-12-10

DeJonge's (1984) functional design process framed an investigation of dance practicewear expectations, importance of dance practicewear attributes, and satisfaction with dance practicewear garments of adult female dancers at three levels of dance commitment. Survey data were collected from 128 university dance class students from two states. Results indicated a significant difference in dance practicewear expectations by level of commitment with more committed dancers more desirous of dancewear that enhances their physical appearance and that is less likely to blend with others than dancers with a lower level of commitment. Size and fit were identified as important dancewear attributes for all levels of commitment. Satisfaction with selection, comfort, fit, and style of dance practicewear was also influenced by level of commitment. Findings provide a basis for future implementation of the next components of the functional design process to provide dance practicewear that meets dancers' needs at various levels of commitment.

Clothing Invention: Improving the Functionality of Women's Skirts, 1846-1920

Peteu, M. C., Helvenston Gray, S. — 2008-12-10

Historians have increasingly used patents to better understand historical antecedents for modern functional attire. This study examined 1,126 patents from the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office "Nether Garments/Skirts" class to investigate skirt function from 1846 to 1920. Thematic content analysis was used to determine a primary purpose for each patent; purposes were then grouped into (a) fashion (primarily shaping devices), (b) wearability, (c) use, and (d) manufacturing. Wearability-related purposes outnumbered those devoted to fashion almost twofold, which emphasizes difficulties women encountered in wearing fashionable skirts. Two major thrusts were determined: (a) between 1846 and 1890, inventors attempted to overcome dysfunctional aspects of wearing fashionable skirt silhouettes, and (b) after 1890 attention turned to skirts designed for sports and professional activities and to meet the special requirements of women's unique physiology (maternity and sanitary protection). Shaping devices followed the generally accepted timeline for fashionable silhouettes, indicating market demand as a patent incentive.

Effects of Culture and Training on Perceptual Learning Style and Spatial Task Performance in Apparel Design

Khoza, L. S., Workman, J. E. — 2008-12-10

The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of culture and training on preferred perceptual learning style and performance of spatial tasks in apparel design. Participants were 88 U.S. and 97 Swazi university students enrolled in apparel design courses. To measure performance on spatial tasks, the Apparel Spatial Visualization Test (ASVT) was used. Preferred perceptual learning styles were measured by the Perceptual Modality Preference Survey. Spatial task performance was affected by training and culture of participants. U.S. students (compared with Swazi students) and students in upper-level apparel design courses (compared with lower-level) scored higher on the ASVT. Preferred perceptual learning style was affected by culture but not by training. Swazi students had a greater preference for the Print modality than U.S. students who indicated a greater preference for the Haptic and Visual modalities.