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Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
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Stretch Fabric Interaction with Action Wearables: Defining a Body Contouring Pattern System

Beate Ziegert

Department of Textiles & Apparel, Cornell University, Ithaca, NY 14853-4401

Geraldine Keil

Department of Textiles & Apparel, Cornell University, Ithaca, NY 14853-4401

The purpose of this study was to establish a flexible and economical system for designing well-fitting body contouring apparel with knitted elastomeric fabrics. The methods used consisted of a simple fabric test which measured the stretchability of elastomeric fabrics and then expressed their stretchability as a percent; a system that adjusted a flat pattern for woven fabrics into a modified pattern for use with any elastomeric fabric; a gridwork system which was drawn onto the modified pattern; and two formulas that calculated and distributed the amount of reductions onto the gridwork. Two fabrics with different stretch characteristics were chosen to test the system, and two garments from each fabric were constructed. Results indicate that each fabric and each grain direction require different pattern shapes for the garments to display the same fit. Investigation of other stretch fabrics and garment types, as well as computerization of the system, would provide more knowledge about this hitherto little researched field.

Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Vol. 6, No. 4, 54-64 (1988)
DOI: 10.1177/0887302X8800600408
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