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The Rise and Fall of It All: The Hemlines and Hiplines of the 1920s

Department of Clothing and Textiles, College of Home Economics, Box 4170, Texas Tech University, Lubbock, TX 79409

That the hemline of women's daytime costume became increasingly elevated during the 1920s, and that this costume often evidenced stylistic emphasis around the anatomical hipline, are two traditional concepts promulgated by most costume historians. In the current investigation, 1,978 women's daytime fashion illustrations, published within Good Housekeeping between February 1920 and December 1929, were measured to test the accuracy of these often communicated beliefs. While the data did substantiate that hemlines rose and hiplines were emphasized during the 1920s, it was noted that the actual transitional movements of these two style details, as plotted by the results of the study, were not so simply described. Hemlines, for example, lengthened during 1922 and 1923, before beginning an upward trend in 1924, reaching the most elevated position in 1927. A relatively stable period ensued until October 1929, when the dress skirt again began to grow longer. Thus, the publication of longer skirts predated the stock market crash of October 29, 1929, by approximately one month. Similarly, the specific location of waist/hip emphasis dropped between the years of 1920 and 1925, thereafter followed by a gradual rise. A modest inverse relationship was noted between the fluctuating positions of the waist/hip design features and hemline locations. It was discovered that data collected from sketched fashion illustrations reflected slightly more exaggerated versions of a concurrent style than did data collected from photographs.

Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Vol. 2, No. 1, 42-48 (1983)
DOI: 10.1177/0887302X8300200108


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